Repair Amaran P60c LED Panel

In June 2024 I figured out how to tear down the Amaran P60c LED panels to replace a broken power jack. It’s not obvious, so here are the steps:

(For more tests and repair advice, see my Aputure / Amaran LED Light Info page.)

Remove Knobs

Take off all 3 knobs with small phillips screwdriver

Remove Rear Case Screws

There are 7 black Torx T8 screws around the perimeter (green circles).

Remove UI Panel Cover

It’s attached with double stick tape. Use a screwdriver or spudger to work around the edges.

I cracked it a little, so it’s smarter to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive first!

Handle the removed panel carefully because you’ll need the adhesive to stick again later.

Remove the 2 longer black Torx T8 screws from under the panel (purple circles).

Separate The Front and Back

The light is hard to open because of the thermal tape inside, but it’s just “tacky” and not really adhesive.

Look into a corner hole: There is an aluminum layer below the plastic. That is what you want to push against in the next step to help open the light. Find a hex key that is small enough to fit through the hole in the plastic but large enough to press against the aluminum layer.

Push the hex key down until you see the front of the light pop out. Do this for each hole.

Grab the exposed lip with your fingers and pull the halves apart.

You did it!

Release the Main Board

Remove the 11 silver Torx T6 screws (red circles). Some are under the thermal tape. Preserve the thermal tape as much as you can.

The white strip stuck to the plastic case (upper left of photo) is the BT/WiFi antenna. Leave it attached because its u.FL connector probably won’t survive too many connection cycles.

Remove the adhesive from the fan connectors

Unplug the fan connectors.

Cover the thermal tape with plastic wrap to keep it from sticking to things while you handle the board.

The main board is connected to the rear panel by several cables. If you need to replace the power connector, you only need to open it enough to reach the solder points of the power wires. Flip the light over to make it easier.

Here the power connector is exposed. It’s easy to break the threadlock adhesive, drop in a replacement, and re-solder to the board.